“Mamma Leone!”
This 1967 book is an heirloom. It was my introduction — induction? — into The Ferraro Family. Every time this book comes into my eyesight, it’s Gus whisking Leone’s Master Salad Dressing or Barbara’s intense stare into the pot with Zuppa di Pesce on Christmas Eve. It’s the Christmas Tree in front of the sliding glass door with the wooden deck and the hill behind it, and my first ever Christmas stocking over the fireplace. And Gus’s: “Mangia! Mangia!”
The legend — and the preface of the book — tells a story about a restaurant at 239 West 48th Street in Manhattan run by an Italian woman named Luisa Leone. She opened it against her husband’s will turning it eventually into a lifeline for her family when she was left the sole head of the household. The only words of encouragement from her husband Luisa heard were: “Luisa, I will not have anything to do with your restaurant, but please remember, decorate the plate, not the place.” To a certain degree, I follow his advice when I choose a place to eat.
Over the years, Mother Leone’s customers included Enrico Caruso, Giacomo Puccini, Marlene Dietrich, Rocky Marciano, Ed Sullivan, Eleanor Roosevelt with her husband, and Harry Truman. To name a few. Mother Leone and her family entertained New Yorkers from 1906 till 1959.
Luisa’s son, Gene Leone, was meticulously preserving his mother’s recipes and techniques. This book is where he put it all together.
Gus and Barbara happened to have two copies of the book. One was held together with a rubber band and another one was good looking. The rubber band one was THE one. The best part of that book were hand written notes by Gus and Barbara adjusting recipes in the margins. When, for one of my birthdays, they gave us “the good copy,” the first thing I did, I borrowed theirs and copied all the comments.
Times changed, tastes changed, FDA recommendations changed. To this day, this is the one and only book for Italian Christmas Eve dinner and Zuppa. The best salad dressing known to man is also in this book. You will use it for the only sauce any respectable person would have with their pasta. No one in their right mind will ever eat eggplant parmigiana based on a recipe other than that of Mother Leone. In this book, there’s also the only one possible sauce that can be used with shrimp. Period.
Tried this one. Gus was right. Too soupy.
Good call! But I bet here Gus listened to Barbara. Her palate has always been very fine.
This is so Gus! Bring it on!
Many recipes in the book were marked with this — “Good.” And it sort of turned into a sign for me — try it, no big deal, but you won’t regret.
This mark is mine. I did start adding my own adjustments as Tom suggested. This one was added before I learned how to shrink eggplants cells prior to cooking so they won’t absorb as much oil. Now I know a better trick to reduce the oil. Science!
Let’s make more! People laugh at me but this is my way, too!
A little adjustment to the traditional Christmas Eve spectacular — Zuppa di Pesce Fresco del Pescatore. This recipe is still work in progress and new notes now require additional pages placed into the book.
And this is the Ferraro bottom line. Shoot me! It’s never spicy enough.
