{"id":3776,"date":"2026-03-28T02:07:15","date_gmt":"2026-03-28T02:07:15","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/?p=3776"},"modified":"2026-04-05T23:22:46","modified_gmt":"2026-04-05T23:22:46","slug":"trip-to-sicily-day-2-palermo-monreale-monreale-cathedral-back-to-palermo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/2026\/03\/28\/trip-to-sicily-day-2-palermo-monreale-monreale-cathedral-back-to-palermo\/","title":{"rendered":"Sicily. Day 2. Palermo. Monreale: Monreale Cathedral. Back to Palermo."},"content":{"rendered":"<p>The next morning started with a reunion on our balcony. The sleep-in was not as dramatic as the morning before and we almost flawlessly fit into Charlotte\u2019s Italian timing. It was her day off and Tom made plans.<\/p>\n<p>The little balcony of our room felt so nice. Even with the walls of the building across the narrow alley being so close, there was a nice cozy feeling and anticipation. When I first stepped on it a thought went through my mind that I could easily stay on this balcony for the entire duration of our trip examining things below and they all can go explore Palermo and Sicily without me.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3110.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3110.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3110\" width=\"600\" height=\"859\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>This is the panorama from the balcony: from Colonna Dell\u2019Immacolata on Piazza San Domenico, along Discesa Maccheronai with all its eateries, towards Vucciria on Piazza Caracciolo. I don\u2019t know if there is a more hip and hopping location to stay in Palermo.<\/p>\n<p>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"View from Palermo Hotel\" src=\"https:\/\/player.vimeo.com\/video\/1121679425?dnt=1&amp;app_id=122963\" width=\"563\" height=\"1000\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"autoplay; fullscreen; picture-in-picture; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>Le Stanze di Triyah affittacamere where we stayed has a business deal with a little cafe around the corner, Di Noto Teresa Maria, where visitors can get a complimentary breakfast.<\/p>\n<p>The weather was the most beautiful one for being outdoors: not hot, not cold, not rainy, not sunny, not windy \u2014 just perfect.<\/p>\n<p>Whether it was the balcony of our room, or these tables outside, everything made me want to hold that moment and make it last. But our time in Sicily was limited and our list had a lot on it to see and visit.<\/p>\n<p>Tom kept us in check making sure we weren\u2019t dawdling.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3125.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3125.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3125\" width=\"600\" height=\"706\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Quick pastries with cappuccino and we were off to the next adventure. It was one rare day when all four of us could stay together. Charlotte had a day off.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3120.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3120.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3120\" width=\"600\" height=\"741\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>We are used to New York not being driving or parking friendly. Parking and driving in Palermo has its own challenges. Coming from the spacious roads of the US suburbs, in Palermo you really want to stay away from driving.<\/p>\n<p>Streets are narrow, windy, lined with uneven cobblestones. Many of them have no sidewalks. I can\u2019t tell for the rest of the country, but Sicilians are taking street signs as suggestions rather than rules and vigilance has a new meaning here.<\/p>\n<p>Parking is also scarce and complicated. There was no place for our car anywhere close to the hotel and we had to leave it at an underground municipal parking lot behind the Teatro Massimo within a 20 minute walk.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3132.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3132.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3132\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Teatro Massimo in a daylight looks less mysterious but more grand. The square in front of it was empty but we heard that summer crowds here are prohibitive.<\/p>\n<p>And off we were to the town on Monreale.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3130.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3130.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3130\" width=\"600\" height=\"621\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Driving through narrow Italian streets is challenging, but parking is even more so. Parking spots can be marked at the most tricky angles to each other and hilly terrain creates the most unusual parking lots. Plus, manual transmission. From here, even San Francisco hills feel like a walk in the park.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s hard to tell by this picture, but our car is parked angled down and to the right while those cars that are perpendicular to us are angled up. Somehow, Tom got not only in but also out.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3142.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3142.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3142\" width=\"600\" height=\"553\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>And off we were to the town of Monreale, a municipality of Palermo located at a much higher altitude on the slope of Mount Caputo.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3143.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3143.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3143\" width=\"600\" height=\"400\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Down below and a few miles south, this is Palermo and Tyrrhenian Sea.<\/p>\n<p>Long time ago, this hilly terrain was used for hunting by Norman royalty. With time, to accommodate hunting parties, palaces were built, houses for people to tend to the royalty. Then the cathedral appeared.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3145.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3145.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3145\" width=\"600\" height=\"641\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Our trip to Monreale happened on a cloudy, comfortable, chilly day in March. Between the sea, the mountains, the landscape dotted with roofs, dramatic clouds, the views from the terrace towards Palermo Valley were breathtaking.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3146.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3146.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3146\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>This is Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, the main square in Monreale so easily recognizable in pictures by these two tall palm trees.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3147.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3147.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3147\" width=\"600\" height=\"703\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Like Palermo, this town, too, is abundant with little bars, shops, and restaurants. But during our visit, most of the umbrellas were closed and tables were empty. Not the season.<\/p>\n<p>Not the season.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3148.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3148.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3148\" width=\"600\" height=\"646\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>This was our first look at Monreale cathedral, famous for its mixture of Arab, Byzantine, and Norman styles. Back in the 12th century when the cathedral was built, Christian and Muslim worlds were blending here evenly.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3149.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3149.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3149\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Not in season has its disadvantages and advantages. Some things are closed but streets are mostly empty and museums are easily accessible. It also seemed like we hit a major construction spree in the center of the village. With that, no picture of the magnificent front of the cathedral for us.<\/p>\n<p>But plenty of medieval vibes from every other angle.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3150.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3150.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3150\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Before going inside, we took a walk around the cathedral and the village and had our lunch.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3152.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3152.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3152\" width=\"600\" height=\"750\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>After that walk, the town of Monreale will forever stay in my memory as a place of peachy beige hues.\u00a0In March, these colors stood out and were very distinct  against the backdrop of the gray sky.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3155.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3155.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3155\" width=\"600\" height=\"713\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Narrow alleyways between the rows of buildings of this hilly and multilevel town frequently were just narrow staircases with steps of various widths and heights \u2013 somewhat similar to the Great Chinese Wall.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3156.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3156-1.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3156\" width=\"600\" height=\"753\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>An obligatory Italian laundry \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3159.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3159.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3159\" width=\"600\" height=\"783\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Like in Palermo, everything around was asking for some care and repairs. In the summer, under the bright sunlight and with crowds of tourists, it is probably not that striking. In March, these streets were empty and gloomy weather made disrepairs stand out.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3160.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3160.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3160\" width=\"600\" height=\"704\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>There were not that many tourists, but occasionally here and there we stumbled on an opening the wall with a local life. Our group of four probably stood out as touristy and local merchants did not bother us with their bargains.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3161.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3161.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3161\" width=\"600\" height=\"719\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>We passed by long stretches of the orange netting but there was no visible activity anywhere even though it was a middle of the work week \u2014 more like in Moscow than in New York where repairs do not stop. Although I am hearing that, these days, Moscow is clean, beautiful, and taken care of.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3162.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3162.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3162\" width=\"600\" height=\"707\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>A few courtyards we walked by have already been cleaned up and prepared for outdoor dining.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3163.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3163.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3163\" width=\"600\" height=\"759\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>But it was not the outdoor season yet. It might be tempting to experience Monreale at the peak of summer but I am such not a fan of crowds.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3164.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3164.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3164\" width=\"600\" height=\"802\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>We circled back to the main square with thoughts about lunch.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3165.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3165.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3165\" width=\"600\" height=\"547\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Every view, no matter where you look, was a postcard. My phone was overheating. I was grateful for the extra storage and extra data Tom purchased before the trip. It is a lot to go through now at home but so interesting \u2014 all these memories.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3166.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3166.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3166\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The girls are already in their twenties but they still like being on the road with us. We\u2019re grateful for that opportunity.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3168.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3168.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3168\" width=\"600\" height=\"717\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Views, views, and more views&#8230;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3171.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3171.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3171\" width=\"600\" height=\"442\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>And decisions\u2026 After a walk around town before entering the cathedral we needed lunch. Lots of places to choose from and none known to us. The view from a restaurant situated on the edge of a cliff was a decisive factor.<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3172.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3172.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3172\" width=\"600\" height=\"821\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>A fun fact: our animated and ironic server shared our last name. Not sure if that irked or excited him but he did pay us special attention.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3174.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3174.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3174\" width=\"600\" height=\"750\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>An obligatory toast to start the meal \u2014 a tradition that started six years ago in Moscow on Red Square. Easy to tell whose hand is whose.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3179.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3179.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3179\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>An interesting mishmash gathered on this patio: our American-Russian group, directly behind us was a couple from Poland, by the big window overlooking Palermo Valley sat a family from Japan, and an older couple from Germany by the other window. Looks and languages were telling.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3186.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3186.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3186\" width=\"600\" height=\"641\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Although in Europe now, we still tend to eat Asian style ordering for the table and sharing.<\/p>\n<p>Here\u2019s my choice \u2014 veal \u2014 can\u2019t do without meat.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3188.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3188.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3188\" width=\"600\" height=\"750\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Frito misto was another choice.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3189.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3189.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3189\" width=\"600\" height=\"750\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>And gnocchi alla Norma. Because Sicily. Legend has it that Italian composer Vincenzo Bellini, the author of Norma, the opera, when first tasting this dish in his native Catania, exclaimed:<\/p>\n<p>\u2014 This is the real Norma!<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3192.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3192.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3192\" width=\"600\" height=\"750\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>A step inside the restaurant from the patio to feel the vibe.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3193.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3193.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3193\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Our tour of Monreale Cathedral started from the rooftop. First we climbed to the side that opened to the Benedictine Cloister. The precision of the lines and details of the garden was unreal. And peaceful.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3204.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3204.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3204\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Walk a little further and a narrow circular terrace opened views in other directions.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3205.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3205.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3205\" width=\"600\" height=\"837\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Moorish arches in the garden are supported by twin columns. Out of 228 pairs no two are alike \u2014 some decorated with moscatos, some with carvings. In the garden, instead of flowers, there are figs, pomegranates, olive bushes, palm trees to follow the stories of the Bible.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3213.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3213.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3213\" width=\"600\" height=\"710\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>In one of the corners of the cloister is a fountain \u2014 water an important symbol of purification.<\/p>\n<p>In medieval theological symbolism, the Cloister is supposed to represent Paradise on Earth.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3214.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3214.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3214\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>After a cramped and narrow passageway to the top, the feeling of the air and sky was liberating.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3216.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3216.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3216\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Beautiful colors of the rooftop shingles glowing in the sun.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3210.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3210.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3210\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Back into even more narrow passages to get to the other side of the rooftop and different views.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3218.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3218.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3218\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Openings in the passage walls towards the indoors offered bird\u2019s views of the mosaics.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3220.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3220.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3220\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>On the other side.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3224.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3224.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3224\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Incredible views in all directions.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3231.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3231.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3231\" width=\"600\" height=\"752\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>This side faces the Conca d&#8217;Oro valley.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3232.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3232.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3232\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Here is Palermo in the distance.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3239.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3239.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3239\" width=\"600\" height=\"532\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>And the views of the Monreale.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3240.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3240.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3240\" width=\"600\" height=\"638\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Some scenery is reminiscent of the Godfather\u2019s Italian pastures where Michael met Apollonia.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3242.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3242.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3242\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The main square of the town as seen from the top of the cathedral.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3250.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3250.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3250\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Back off the rooftop we moved down the stairs to see the inside of the cathedral.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3200.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3200.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3200\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>According to tour guides, the walls of Monreale Cathedral hold more than 2,200 kilograms or 4,850 pounds of pure gold. And it shows!<\/p>\n<p>In the central vault there is a huge mosaic of Christ Pantocrater that glows like the sun from above and no matter where you go in the cathedral his eyes seem to follow you.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3255.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3255.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3255\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The ceiling of the central nave of the cathedral \u2014 also gold \u2014 is not original. The first one was destroyed by lightning that caused a fire and later rebuilt.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3199.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3199.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3199\" width=\"600\" height=\"789\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Confession booths terrify me. If these walls could talk\u2026 How much has this wood heard over the course of the centuries,  absorbing it all?..<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3196.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3196.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3196\" width=\"600\" height=\"755\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Throughout the cathedral on the walls, there are multiple marble plaques praising clergy that contributed to its creation.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThese old towers survived the pressure and damage of time and were restored thanks to the care of Michael Penninsi, the archbishop of Montis Regalis, and made even more grand to preserve the memories of the Golden Cathedral\u2026&#8221;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3202.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3202.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3202\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The interior still looks exactly like it did in the 12th century. The walls are completely covered with golden mosaics that rise really high from floor to the ceiling.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3267.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3267.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3267\" width=\"600\" height=\"737\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The mosaics are quite realistic. They mostly picture characters and stories from Genesis \u2014 from the creation to the assumption \u2014like a story book for those who cannot read.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3271.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3271.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3271\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>To complement the golden grandeur of the altar, in front of it, there are six silver figures of saints standing between the candlesticks on bronze pedestals<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3272.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3272.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3272\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The effect of the sun rays illuminating the interior is truly spectacular!<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3274.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3274.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3274\" width=\"600\" height=\"691\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Statue of Jesus in the choir of the cathedral in front of the altar.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3280.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3280.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3280\" width=\"600\" height=\"898\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Near the entrance, there is a Chapel of the Crucifix. With all the overwhelming\u00a0gold around, the chapel can be outshined and missed \u2014 it is somewhat secluded from the rest of the cathedral.But there is a special warmth and peace in it that make it more memorable than the central part.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3282.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3282.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3282\" width=\"600\" height=\"776\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>By the entrance to the chapel, there is another marble plaque. This one bestows praise on the archbishop Giovanni Roano who contributed to the creation of the Chapel of the Crucifix that is also known as the Roano Chapel.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3288.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3288.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3288\" width=\"600\" height=\"816\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>A combination of marble figures with colorful inlaid decorations on the walls and floor is a striking contrast to the gold. It easily can take hours to explore the details and stories carved on these walls.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3286.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3286.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3286\" width=\"600\" height=\"784\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>This chapel hides the tombs of Margaret of Navarre and French King Louis IX who died here during one of the crusades.<\/p>\n<p>Figures of the four prophets decorate the walls.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3290.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3290.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3290\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Besides prophets, there are figures of theological virtues: Faith, Hope, and Charity. This one is Charity.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3292.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3292.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3292\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Statue of Archbishop Giovanni Roano himself. A patron of the arts, it is on his orders the construction of the chapel began.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3293.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3293.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3293\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Once outside, our little tour group took a break to absorb and process the grandeur and beauty we just have witnessed.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3300.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3300.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3300\" width=\"600\" height=\"817\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>When in Italy, gelato break is a must.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3303.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3303.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3303\" width=\"600\" height=\"750\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Back to the car and some more of Palermo valley views.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3304.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3304.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3304\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>By the middle of the day clouds parted and the sun cheered up the medieval moods and landscapes.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3307.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3307.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3307\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The drive back to Palermo was quick and uneventful.<\/p>\n<p>Still not getting used to and excited with Palermo laundry views as much as with the gold of Monreale.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3308.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3308.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3308\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>And over and over everywhere long history and beautiful architecture are intertwined with striking neglect.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3309.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3309.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3309\" width=\"600\" height=\"878\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The trend in Palermo seemed to be \u2014 the closer an alley is located to the main drag, the more likely some sort of a trade would be taking place there. And the dominant Sicilian motiff\u201a lemons, was everywhere \u2014 pottery, textiles, painting.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3310.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3310.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3310\" width=\"600\" height=\"748\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Back to Corso Vittorio Emanuelle where we were meeting Charlotte\u2019s acting coworkers for dinner.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3311.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3311.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3311\" width=\"600\" height=\"750\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Candied nuts, dried fruit, and chocolate. What else would one want?<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3312.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3312.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3312\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Passing by Quattro Conti. Now with Lizzie. The square feels different in every light.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3313.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3313.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3313\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>A toast to another successful day together \u2014 now in Sicily.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3315.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3315.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3315\" width=\"600\" height=\"750\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Our local tour guide and interpreter:<\/p>\n<p>\u2014 Allora!<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3321.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3321.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3321\" width=\"600\" height=\"777\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>And her constant support group.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3342.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3342.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3342\" width=\"600\" height=\"742\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The day before, walking through Vucciria, we were pulled by this young man named Anton into one of the market\u2019s restaurants. It turned out to be a nice place with good food and fine outdoor seating.<\/p>\n<p>Today, we decided not to take our chances and went back to Anton.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3351 2.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3351-2.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3351 2\" width=\"600\" height=\"715\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Charlotte\u2019s Portuguese friend Gui turned out to be more knowledgeable about Italian wines so we let him decide this with Anton.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3360.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3360-1.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3360\" width=\"600\" height=\"750\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>It was probably Tom and me who stuck with beer.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3363.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3363.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3363\" width=\"600\" height=\"750\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Love going out with big grioups \u2014 you can order more and try more.<\/p>\n<p>And how can you be without seafood in Italy?<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3354.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3354.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3354\" width=\"600\" height=\"750\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Don\u2019t remember who ordered this cheesy polenta but it was interesting to see how this Italian ingredient is treated in Sicily.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3353.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3353.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3353\" width=\"600\" height=\"750\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>More seafood, now fritto.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3365.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3365.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3365\" width=\"600\" height=\"750\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>More veal. Now with local tomatoes.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3370.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3370.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3370\" width=\"600\" height=\"750\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Excellent pizza. With mushrooms. Obviously not Lizzie\u2019s choice. But here it doesn\u2019t matter \u2014 the dough alone is amazing. Is it flour? Is it the water? \u00a0<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3371.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3371.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3371\" width=\"600\" height=\"750\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p>And there is never enough vongole. Significantly less al dente today than last night.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"IMG_3379.jpeg\" src=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_3379.jpeg\" alt=\"IMG 3379\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The next morning started with a reunion on our balcony. The sleep-in was not as dramatic as the morning before and we almost flawlessly fit into Charlotte\u2019s Italian timing. It was her day off and Tom made plans. The little balcony of our room felt&nbsp;<a class=\"read-more\" href=\"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/2026\/03\/28\/trip-to-sicily-day-2-palermo-monreale-monreale-cathedral-back-to-palermo\/\">&hellip;<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":3775,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[6],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3776","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-movies"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3776","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3776"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3776\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3894,"href":"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3776\/revisions\/3894"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3775"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3776"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3776"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/juliacore.com\/beyondthebarre\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3776"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}